Lunana - A Yak in the Classroom

It’s not very often (in fact, almost never) that a Bhutanese film makes it onto the international circuit and ends up getting nominated at the 94th Academy Awards in the ‘Best International Feature Film’ category. But LUNANA – A YAK IN THE CLASSROOM achieved precisely that and it’s easy to see why, thanks to a heart-warming story compellingly told and beautifully photographed.

We begin in urban surroundings where Ugyen Dorji (Sherab Dorji), a young man with aspirations of his own, has just completed four out of five mandatory years training as a teacher for the government. It’s a respectable and rewarding job (well, he’d better not apply for a teaching job in this country…) and his gran (Tsheri Zom) is particularly proud of him. Alas, he feels the teaching profession is not for him and harbours ambitions to move to Australia and become a successful musician. Indeed, we see him and his friends hanging out in a bar where he takes to the stage with his guitar and garners much applause. The following day he is to report to a government employee who informs him that – seeing as how he didn’t exactly enjoy his first four years as a trainee teacher – he might be happier completing his training in a place called Lunana, a remote mountain village (in fact, THE most remote village in Bhutan!) where it’s peaceful and quiet. Suffice to say, Ugyen is aghast at the prospect but has little choice and even less say in the matter. His gran, too, feels that it’s a good idea for him to go to Lunana and complete his teaching assignment.

Begrudgingly, he bids gran and his friends a temporary farewell and embarks on his epic trek up to Lunana… While still in the city, he meets Michen (Ugyen Norbu), his personal guide who is to take him to the village. Friendly and polite, Michen informs his charge that he’s already sorted out some provisions for him like toiletries and loo paper because “city folk need paper to s**t while us yak herders are happy using leaves”. Well, how’s that for a statement?

Michen tries everything to make Ugyen feel comfortable and has even arranged dinner in a little eatery, trying to make conversation while city dweller Ugyen is far too occupied with his smartphone. The following morning the trek begins in earnest and it’s not before long when an exhausted Ugyen asks Michen how much longer they have to walk, complaining that the path just goes upward and upward… and his expensive new shoes, which he bought in a market in Thimphu especially for the journey, are supposed to be water- and mud-proof… but are not. “That’s because you bought the wrong shoes”, replies Michen, who himself is fine with a pair of cheap and comfy wellies. Ascending higher and higher (the altitude pops up on the screen), poor Ugyen is not far short from collapsing, therefore it’s just as well that Michen and his fellow guides not only stop for a brief Buddhist ceremony to bless the mountain spirits but stop over in a hut inhabited by friends, offering food and rice wine. After what seems like a hundred years to Ugyen, the small group finally reach the village of Lunanan… where our reluctant teacher is in for an even further shock: the local school (if you can call it that) is a mere ramshackle building which lacks even the basics, never mind a blackboard.

Nonetheless, the herding community does everything to make him feel welcome, especially Asha Jinpa (Kunzang Wangdi), the widowed village leader and above all, the children who look forward to finally having a teacher again. If only Ugyen could share their enthusiasm… for now though, he is somewhat disgruntled to discover that electricity rarely works in these parts, meaning he won’t be able to tend to his smartphone and other gadgets every five minutes. The first lesson in the classroom is a mixed blessing for him despite the kids, led by adorable ‘class captain’ Pem Zam, are clearly thrilled that they have a teacher… but how do you teach kids with no blackboard? Reluctantly, Ugyen has no other choice than to scribble on the wall.
His assignment in Lunana is only meant to last before winter breaks in and the herding community will be completely cut off from the outside world but Ugyen has no intentions of waitinguntil the arrival of winter: he makes it clear to Asha and Michen that he doesn’t like staying in Lunana and wishes to leave at the earliest opportunity. Michen, always polite and friendly, answers that once the mules have had a few days rest, he will see to it that Ugyen returns to the city. Alas, a lot can happen in a few days and Michen constructs a blackboard for him while Pem Zam and the other kids make it clear that Ugyen is their favourite teacher and they don’t want him to leave. Then some more of Ugyens belongings arrive via ‘Yak mail’ including his beloved guitar.

Slowly, Ugyen warms to the villagers and in particular the kids, who never miss an opportunity to let him know how much they appreciate his presence. During one outing, he meets Saldon (Kelden Lhamo Gurung), Asha’s young niece. Sitting on the top of a hill, she sings a strange song called ‘Yak Lebi Lhadar’ – a sad song written by a local yak herder who, according to ancient custom, had to slaughter his favourite yak to feed the villagers, with the last verse sung from the animal’s perspective who promises to return to his owner one day. Fascinated, he asks Saldon to teach him the song. Later on, when the weather begins to turn chilly, she presents him with Norbu, a yak which is to provide him with dung to heat his room – but because the weather is turning cold, Norbu must remain indoors… in the spacious classroom! It’s a weird sight to behold and not many children can say they share their classroom with a yak!

By now, winter is approaching fast and Ugyen needs to leave – disappointing his new friends when he reveals that he won’t be returning to Lunana come spring because he’s going to leave Bhutan for good. The disappointment is written all over their faces but they respect his decision and Saldon presents him with a scarf as a farewell present, while little Pem Zam hands him a letter from all the children. Ugyen leaves but as he embarks on his long way back to the city, he is a changed man – the villagers and their simple and spiritual lifestyle have left a positive impression and made him think about what’s really important in life. For now, he follows his dream and in the final scene overlooking Sydney harbour, we see him in a bar playing Daniel Boone’s song ‘Beautiful Sunday’ when to his disappointment, none of the punters pay any attention and keep chatting away. It’s only when he starts singing the ‘Yak Lebi Lhadar’ that the revellers begin to listen to his music… The film ends on a somewhat ambiguous note because from Ugyen’s facial expression we sense that he longs to return to his new-found friends in Lunana… and who knows, maybe he will.
Captivatingly photographed by Jigme Tenzing, the film provides a fascinating insight into a culture as far removed from us as Lunana is from the big city.

There is much to be found in this simple tale and main actor Sherab Dorji won the ‘Prix du Public’ as ‘Best Actor’ at the French Saint-Jean-de-Luz’ film festival.
This little gem (originally released in 2019) is now available on Blu-Ray, DVD and On Demand. Language: Dzongkha (with English subtitles).